Lolita fashion, as we know it today, had not yet emerged in the 1970s, but its foundation was laid during this decade. Two brands, Milk and Pink House, are often credited with planting the seeds of this now iconic style, and both remain significant in shaping girly and feminine aesthetics in Japan.
In 1970, Hitomi Okawa opened her clothing brand Milk in Harajuku. At the time, Milk’s limited sizing and high price point made it inaccessible to the average girl, cementing its status as an aspirational brand. Milk’s designs, characterized by their playful femininity, became synonymous with idols and the idealized lifestyle young girls dreamed of emulating.
Pink House, founded in 1973 by Isao Kaneko, was another brand central to this era. While its style is categorized as Denenshi (pastoral poetry style) rather than Lolita, Pink House was instrumental in popularizing girly and romantic fashion in Japan. Its emphasis on layers, frills, and feminine detailing helped make such aesthetics more mainstream, paving the way for the Lolita subculture to thrive in later decades.
The 1970s also marked the rise of kawaii culture, a youth-driven movement that celebrated innocence and childlike aesthetics as a form of quiet rebellion against adult societal norms. This cultural shift romanticized childhood and encouraged hyper-feminine, whimsical styles, influencing early Lolita aesthetics. Boutique brands like Milk embraced this trend, creating delicate, girly designs that were aspirational yet playful. The kawaii movement’s emphasis on nostalgia, personal expression, and resistance to societal expectations planted the seeds for the fantasy-driven world of Lolita fashionSharon Kinsella also highlights in Cuties (1995) how kawaii culture empowered young women to assert their individuality through handwriting styles, accessories, and clothing. This DIY ethos, combined with the emphasis on personalization, became a hallmark of early Lolita communities, where individuals would often hand-make their own outfits or customize existing clothing to suit their aesthetic vision.
TIMELINE
in April 1970 MILK was founded by Hitomi Okawa in Harajuku in Central Apartment. milk started out as a brand mostly worn by idols, as the sizes were too small, and too expensive for the general public. despite this, milk created an newly desired aesthetic relying on girly motifs that would later inspire lolita fashion.
In July 1970, BIGI Group was founded as Bigi Co., Ltd. and later in September, BIGI Group opened their first boutique in Harajuku under the name BIGI. bigi was HEADED BY Yuji Okusu and DESIGNERS takeo kikuchi and yoshie inaba, who are often named as leaders in the dc boom in japan.
Heibon Publishing, the publisher of Heibon Punch, launched An An with Kaneko Isao as the designer and fashion director. This period marks the emergence of distinctive Japanese street fashions, paving the way for subcultures like Lolita fashion to gain traction in the years that followed.
in 1971, Kaneko Isao started her journey in design for the boutique Nicole.
although not yet in japan, in 1971 Vivienne Westwood’s Boutique “Let It Rock” opened in London.
in 1971, Non-no magazine (Shueisha) launched. The growing fashion scene, influenced by romantic and nostalgic aesthetics, helped to lay the foundation for the development of lolita fashion.
In 1972, Riyoko Ikeda’s The Rose of Versailles was released. This manga played a pivotal role in normalizing girly aesthetics and validating that women could be complex characters while still embracing their feminine qualities. The Rose of Versailles, along with other girl-centric manga of the time, helped promote kawaii culture, creating the ideal environment for Lolita fashion to flourish.
In 1973, Pink House was officially founded by Kaneko Isao.
in 1974 MILK launched their sub-label MILK Boy. milk boy gained traction among foriegn singers like david bowie and john lenon.
Rei Yanagawa launches Shirley Temple, a children’s clothing brand that had similar aesthetics to what would become lolita fashion.
in 1976, Popeye magazine launched. popeye magazine would later branch off to create olive magazine, which popularized girls fashion in the 1980s.
In 1978, the iconic department store LaForet opened in Harajuku, quickly becoming a hotspot for youth fashion. It housed a variety of Lolita and feminine fashion brands, including Angelic Pretty, Jane Marple, and Atelier Pierrot, helping to shape the vibrant fashion scene in the area.
in 1978, Atelier Pierrot officially opened as a select shop in la foret. it is one of the most prominent Gothic Lolita fashion brands from Tokyo, Japan, and one of the pioneers of the Lolita fashion scene. The brand is known for its iconic designs that blend gothic, gothic Lolita, and classic Lolita styles, and it has played a crucial role in shaping the evolution of the fashion subculture.
in 1979, Select shop PRETTY opened in Laforet Harajuku selling gothic and lolita items from many different designers. This store marked one of the first significant retail spaces dedicated to selling Lolita fashion and gothic items, a milestone in the fashion’s early days of mainstream exposure in Japan
in 1979, Shibuya 109 also opened, creating more opportunities for young girls to explore the emerging fashions.
