The 1990s marked a turning point for Lolita fashion, as the style began to crystallize and gain recognition as a distinct subculture. This decade saw the rise of street snap photography, with publications like FRUiTS documenting Harajuku’s alternative fashion scene. Lolita fashion emerged as one of the defining subcultures of the era, often celebrated for its intricate designs and rejection of mainstream trends.
Many attribute the formalization of Lolita fashion to this decade. The magazine SPA noted in 1994 that Lolita fashion had been around for some time but had gained significant popularity in the past two years. Despite this growing visibility, Takemoto Novala, one of Lolita fashion’s most iconic figures, described the 1990s as the “ice age” of the subculture. In his book Lolita Fashion, he lamented that Lolita was the most disliked fashion of the time, a sentiment reflected in FRUiTS photographer Shoichi Aoki’s reluctance to feature Lolitas in his work. This disdain may reflect the broader societal rejection of subcultures that deviated from traditional norms.
Nonetheless, the 1990s was a period of growth and innovation for Lolita fashion. Brands like Atelier Pierrot and Angelic Pretty emerged, and the style became intertwined with the visual kei music scene. Bands like Malice Mizer, particularly guitarist Mana-sama, popularized Gothic Lolita, blending dramatic, aristocratic elements with the subculture’s aesthetic. Mana-sama is often credited with coining the term “Gothic Lolita,” though Atelier Pierrot also lays claim to this distinction.
The 1990s also brought scrutiny to Lolitas, with magazines publishing editorials analyzing their behaviors and criticizing their perceived disinterest in conventional societal roles, such as marriage. Despite this, the latter half of the decade saw the Lolita silhouette become more defined, with brands refining their designs and storytelling.
TIMELINE
PUTUMAYO (プトマヨ) 1990: A punk-inspired brand with Lolita elements, launched in 1990 with its first store at Laforet Harajuku. The brand gained recognition for offering a casual take on Gothic Lolita and PUNK AND participated in the 2007 Japan Expo in Paris. The brand ceased operations in 2018, closing its stores.
in 1992, the visual kei band malice mizer was formed. Known for their lavish, historically inspired outfits and theatrical performances, the band’s members, including Mana-sama and Közi, used costume, makeup, and personality to embody unique roles both within the band and in their music. Mana-sama embraced a gothic lolita aesthetic and his influence on gothic lolita fashion was immense. The visual style of visual kei helped solidify the association of the genre with dark, romantic, and dramatic elements.
isao kaneko established Kaneko isao in 1990, but it wasn’t until 1992 that the first “Kaneko Isao” collection (Spring/Summer 1993) was held. ultimately, kaneko left pink house in january 1994 to focus on kaneko isao co., ltd.
metamorphose temps de fille (メタモルフォーゼ・タン・ドゥ・フィーユ) 1993: Founded by Kuniko Kato while she was still studying at Osaka Mode Gakuen. The brand initially started as Kato’s independent label but grew quickly in popularity, leading to the establishment of the official metamorphose brand in 1997 in Kyoto, before moving to Osaka in 1998. The brand is known for its sweet Lolita aesthetic and has expanded with several direct stores, including locations in Nagoya and Harajuku. It later became a corporation in 2000 and changed its name to Metamorphose Co., Ltd. in 2002.
alice auaa (アリスアウアア) 1993:
Founded in 1993 by Yasutaka Funakoshi in Kobe with the opening of the store “Alice in Modern Time.” Two years later, in 1995, the brand “alice auaa” was established, and the store moved to Osaka.
ATELIER BOZ (アトリエ ボズ) 1995:
Founded by designers Takashi Shibata and Keiji Ichimura, both from Bunka Fashion College. ATELIER BOZ is known for its gothic, medieval-inspired designs and started producing gothic items for select shops, eventually opening its first store in Sapporo in 2000.
MARBLE (マーブル) 1996
Founded by designer Saori Izumi, a graduate of Osaka Mode Gakuen. Izumi initially worked for an apparel company in Kobe but started creating original MARBLE products. After a year, she left the company to focus on her brand. In 1998, she opened a store in Osaka’s Shinsaibashi area, sharing space with VISIBLE.
MAXICIMAM (マキシマム) 1996: Founded by designers Kurotama and Kuroneko, who were classmates at a fashion school. They reconnected three years after graduation and started the brand in 1996. MAXICIMAM combines Gothic Lolita and punk styles, offering various lines such as MAM, Lovely, MA, and others like nekomimi and na-th.
MIHO MATSUDA (ミホマツダ) 1997: A Gothic and Lolita brand created by Miho Matsuda, a graduate of Tokyo Mode Gakuen. The brand focuses on “sophisticated girls’ treasure chests,” blending European-inspired aesthetics with a mature, girly style. It also took inspiration from the video game Devil May Cry in some of its designs.
FRUiTS magazine, launched in 1997, popularized and shaped the visual identity of Japanese street fashion. although the photographer of fruits didn’t particularly like to include lolita fashion, he still did, helping introduce and normalize lolita fashion to a wider audience.
VISIBLE (ヴィジブル) 1998: Founded by designer Rachel, a graduate of Osaka Mode Gakuen. At the age of 22, Rachel started the brand, which became known for its gothic and classical Lolita aesthetic. Originally offering a variety of colors, the brand became renowned for its black designs, following a request from a select shop owner. VISIBLE is known for its voluminous skirts, elaborate lace, and oversized sleeves.
Kerouac, which would later evolve into Kera magazine, began its publication in 1998, the same year that Misako Aoki started modeling for the magazine.
Moi-même-Moitié (モワ・メーム・モワティエ) 1999: Founded by Mana, the guitarist of the bands Malice Mizer and Moi dix Mois, this brand focuses on Gothic Lolita with aristocratic influences, incorporating elements of both elegant and gothic styles. Moi-même-Moitié is known for its distinctive use of blue, a favorite color of Mana, and its luxurious, dark aesthetic.
Victorian Maiden (ヴィクトリアンメイデン) 1999: Founded by Mari Nakamura with the concept of “Victorian-style elegance.” Known for its classic and elegant Lolita designs, Victorian Maiden is one of the key players in the classical Lolita fashion scene. The brand has spawned other sub-brands like Beth and VM. The original designer, Nakamura, later went on to create Juliette et Justine, while other designers like Rieko Tanaka also contributed to its legacy.
Innocent World (イノセント・ワールド) 1999: Designed by Yumi Fujiwara, Innocent World was created with the concept of capturing the heart of a forever young, innocent woman. Known for its classic and elegant designs, often featuring crown motifs. The brand opened a temporary shop in Osaka on August 30, 2009, though its main shop was a small apartment in Osaka.
in 1999, Shirley Temple established their women’s line called Emily Temple Cute.
The manga Paradise Kiss is first published in 1999.
in 1999 Metamorphose and baby both bring their businesses online.
